Exploring who made Denim Tears
Modern streetwear is as much about the storytelling as it is about style. In many cases, the popularity of a brand hinges more on the richness of the culture that inspires it than on the clothing pieces themselves. Thankfully, Denim Tears’ source material more than fits the bill. For Tremaine Emory, the former creative director at Supreme and the man who made Denim Tears, the cultural significance of the story he is trying to tell is as captivating as it gets.
Founded and launched in 2019 by the Atlanta-born, Queens-raised designer and self-proclaimed aesthete Tremaine Emory. Denim Tears has, since its inception, served as a platform for Emory to explore the Black experience in America. By intertwining social and historical narratives into his work in the fashion industry. The success of the brand has been undeniable, and only strengthens his own self-belief in the project. This has all been based on how well his storytelling approach, particularly around themes of race, labour and black heritage, has resonated with his audience. High-profile individuals, including boxer Gervonta Davis, rappers A$AP Rocky and Central Cee, and Bella Hadid, have actively endorsed the brand.
Storytelling in Streetwear
Symbolism in the fashion industry is by no means a new phenomenon. Clothing is more than ever seen as a form of art. The best art inspires you to think and feel — not just about its appearance, but also about what it conveys and represents.. Black history in particular is a relatively common muse for brands in the streetwear space. Brands like Grace Wales Bonner, Fear of God and Pyer Moss, to name just a few, have made similar waves in the industry to Denim Tears. All producing pieces of clothing that precisely toe the line between fashion and activism.
Denim Tears might not be an originator when it comes to what it stands for, but the depth of its devotion is certainly 1 of 1. Each one of the brand’s collections has been meticulously developed to ensure that the commitment to each chosen theme is more than just a token gesture. Instead, it is the very identity of the brand itself. The most iconic symbol of this is the Cotton Wreath motif, which is frequently used on the brand’s denim jackets, jeans, and t-shirts. This logo of sorts stands as a reference to the legacy of slavery in America. They chose cotton due to its connotations with Black suffering and resilience, as enslaved people were most commonly forced to pick cotton during the height of the slave trade. Ultimately, forcing everyone who sees or wears the wreath to confront that history in a visceral way.
A collaborative cultural commentary
Tremaine Emory and all who made Denim Tears what it is today have done so with the clearest of visions. Quilted patterns, historical texts, and protest art depicting scenes of the Great Migration and the Reconstruction era frequently appear in each of the brand’s clothing collections. Some of the brand’s most high-profile and iconic pieces, particularly their collaborations with brands like Levi’s and Converse, have been presented as fascinating depictions of American workwear that only serve to extend the narrative. Using these traditional and recognisable American workwear silhouettes as a satirical backdrop to symbolise the contrast between Americana and the Black experience.
More than a Store
Every detail, down to the flagship store, located at 176 Spring Street in SoHo, New York, is more of a cultural hub than just somewhere to buy Denim Tears products. The store’s name, African Diaspora Goods, is as upfront and unapologetic as the brand’s intentions. The store is notable not just for its clothing, but also for housing an extensive library and archive of publications that celebrate African arts and culture. This ensures that the store offers visitors an immersive experience that interweaves fashion with the rich narratives of the African diaspora.
If you asked Emory Tremaine to define himself, he would almost certainly call himself an activist first and fashion designer second. The primary reason he resigned from his role at Supreme in 2023 was his response to the systemic racism he perceived as being present within the company. The very existence of his Cotton Wreath in the streetwear scene is a direct challenge to that and other forms of social and racial injustice in fashion and American culture more broadly. So really, I have no doubt Emory would want the conversation around his brand to be less about who made Denim Tears, but instead, why make Denim Tears? To him, the answer appears simple: to tell the stories that he believes will both educate and inspire. Sounds good to us.