Sacai vs. Union LA: Whos collaborations win?

August 2020 will see two massive collaborations return for Nike and Jordan, respectively. Nike is bringing back Tokyo based Sacai to push the boundaries of design once more. Jordan Brand brings in LA boutique store Union for a second time to take over a classic silhouette.

We take a look at previous collaborations from both and take a deep dive into this month’s releases in anticipation of the drops.

The only question is, who’s work comes out on top?

Sacai x Nike LD Waffle vs. Union LA x Jordan 1

Sacai and Union were not messing around with their first taste of collaborating on sneakers. Both came out with shoes that were instantly in the discussion for sneakers of the year in 2018 and 2019. Union LA taking over the cult classic Jordan 1, while Sacai fused two Nike silhouettes. The Nike LDV and Waffle Racer, to create the LD Waffle.

Union x Jordan

Union LA x Jordan 1 (2018) 

Union LA owner Chris Gibbs decided to tackle possibly the most iconic sneaker today for his collaboration. The Jordan 1.

Gibbs created two colourways to release in minimal numbers. The idea behind the two colourways was a ‘cut and paste’ theme, taking multiple original colourways of the Jordan 1 and combining them to make the Union LA Jordan.

Each colourway features sail soles and slightly yellowed leather. This gives the sneaker a vintage feel from the second they were worn. Due to the limited availability, they fetch around £1500 on the resale marketplace—a true grail for sneakerheads around the globe.

Looking to cop a pair of the Union LA x Jordan 1 Black Toes? Click here to find your size.


sacai x nike collaborations

Sacai x Nike LD Waffle (2019) 

Japanese designer Chitose Abe honed her craft at COMME DES GARÇONS AND Junya Watanabe before founding Sacai in 1999. After years of creating unusual pieces, Nike began to take notice and brought her on to create an apparel line in 2015. Fast forward to 2018, and Nike brought Abe back to use her incredible maximalist design and build an extraordinary silhouette. Abe mashed together the Nike Dunk and Nike Blazer to create a strange-looking high top sneaker. The Sacai Blazer was not that well-received, but in 2019 she would use two lesser-known Nike shoes to create the sneakers of the year candidate the Sacai x Nike LD Waffle.

The silhouette had everything you had come to expect from a Sacai collaboration. Creative colourways with layered swooshes and tongues. They even featured a layered sole which is perhaps the stand out design aspect of the sneaker.

The original blue/red and green/yellow colourways were discussed by many as sneakers of the year, they now fetch anywhere between £500-£600 in the resale marketplace.

Want to pick up a pair of the Sacai x Nike sneakers? Click here to find your style and size.


This year’s releases

August 2020 sees two new releases from both Sacai and Union LA. Gibbs has decided to take over the Air Jordan 4. Abe has decided to mash together the Pegasus Vaporfly and the Pegasus Vaporwaffle.

Union x Jordan collaborations

Union LA x Air Jordan 4 

Union LA took some time off from collaborating with Nike but has come back to deliver another great collab. After the massive success of the Union x Jordan 1, the LA boutique store this time is taking over Tinker Hatfield creation the Jordan 4.

This time we see Union use an exciting mix of pinks, reds and blues to create the Guava Ice colourway. The less in your face Off Noir colourway features a black and blue upper. The sole is sail coloured sole to emphasise what sits on top of it. On the heel of both, you will find the Nike Air branding favoured over the Jumpman logo.

The most irregular part of the Union x Jordan 4’s comes in the shape of a tongue. It folds to show the typical Air Jordan branding stitched inside of it. Contrary to what people first thought when images began to surface, you can have the tongue at full length as you would generally see on Jordan 4 models.

Gibbs has also added his usual personal touch with the addition of the Union LA yellow tab featured on the side panelling of each shoe. The addition of the tab has become synonymous with Union LA x Jordan sneakers.


sacai x nike

Sacai x Nike Vaporwaffle

This colossal collaboration between Nike and Sacai is sure to be an instant sell-out when released.

The silhouette was initially unveiled at Paris Fashion Week. Borrowing design aspects from both the from the Pegasus Vaporfly and the Pegasus Vaporwaffle. We once again see the incredible layering and irregular design aspects that make Sacai collabs so hyped within the sneaker industry.

The sneaker comes dressed in three colourways. One is covered mostly in black while featuring one grey, and one white swoosh doubled up on the side panels of the shoe. Another is mostly a mix of sail materials with striking red and blue accents. The third and boldest colourway features a mostly burgundy colourway with teal accents. Double swooshes feature on the side panels in black and light blue.

If you did not think the heel was extreme enough on the LDWaffle, then the Sacai x Nike Vaporwaffle will most definitely be for you. The shoe technically features a shelf on the back of the shoe. Somehow this shoe is entirely insane and unimaginable, but also the norm and to be expected from Sacai.

The initial LD Waffle release pushed many boundaries in terms of design. This silhouette shows Chitose Abe has no intention of slowing down.

So, who wins? 

When you have two creative powerhouses join forces with giants like Nike and Jordan Brand, you know the results will be outstanding. It is almost criminal to choose between the two. Seeing as both Abe and Gibbs go in completely different directions with their designs but still have exceptional outcomes.

All I know is that these upcoming releases are must cops for sneakerheads all over the world. I expect them to catapult into the sneakers of the year discussion for 2020.